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This has been in the family for around 40 years. My long-since deceased dad purchased it to power the small hay grinder preparing feed to fillpart of a small barn. I can specifically remember the night we brought the thing home from the east side of town. About 1/4 of the way, the left rear tire went flat, and it stayed that way the rest of the 2 miles or so. Anyway, once it was positioned to run the grinder, via a long wide belt, the bad tire didn't matter. In the 1970s, I began an overhaul & restoration (I think many receipts for that work are still on hand). A good block was located (the original was cracked), and bored/honed to the oversize pistons (.045 if memory serves) which were in the old block. I don't specifically remember what head work was done. I didn't have the knowledge or tools to carefully set rod bearing clearance, or correct crank end play. This latter will be an area you will need to correct. While it was inside for a few years in an out-building, it has set outside over the last 10+ years. Early on, before the resto. was complete, the exhaust manifold set partly open, so water has gotten into the right cylinder. While it didn't stick the piston, it appeared to have pitted the cylinder wall. I had to pull the head, and clean out that cylinder. The engine was started and the tractor was used to plow a modest gardenarea for 2 or 3 years, so the damage wasn't desperately serious. Since that time however, the exhaust has been covered, and on a few occasions, WD40 sprayed in through the spark plug holes (plugs were reinstalled afterwards, not left open before or after!). Since the pics the crankcase has been cleaned out, oil and filter changed. As noted below, I have attempted to get the rig started, but a carb. kit is needed. A full resto. would suggest a major teardown on the engine portion, at least to correct the excess crank end-play. Carbuerator:Prior to this listing, the carb. was taken off the tractor, disassembled, then media blasted in the bowl & lower bowl area which was rusted. It was then reassembled (no kit & it should have one), & reinstalled. I attempted to get the thing to start but wasn't able to keep it running. A carb. kit is definitely needed as the bowl leaks badly. ExhaustThere is no muffler on this thing, just a straight welded pipe. Radiator: Was cleaned and reconditioned years ago. No fluids are in the cooling system. The cap has a small (about 1.5 inch) area of the lip broken off.  Hood & Fuel tank: The correct hood is in place, but a piece was cut out to accomodate a non-original tank. The tank in it now is correct for this model as far as I know. This tank was hot-tanked, then coated with the 3 step creme like compound kit. I never did locate the correct glass sediment bowl assembly, so I just hooked up the small fuel tank with a lawnmower nipple/strainer, and rubber lined it to the carb. After a closer inspection recently, the tank appears to be severely rusted, so it may need either substantial repair, or a better tank located and installed. Clutch unit: Though the clutch engages and holds, there has been some slippage & overheating in the past. I don't recall exactly, but I think this is evidenced by some hairline cracking on one of steel surfaces. Please note, the picture shows the cover missing from the clutch. This cover is present with the tractor. Transmission/drive:This has the 2 speed fwd 1 reverse gear selection with a hi/lo range. A PTO exists, with an engage lever. Steering box:The steering box has a crack near the clamp area. You might be able to see this in the pic. Rear Tires & rims: A set of used rears were installed 15 - 18 years ago. Size on these are 14 x 24 6 ply. Originals were 13.25 (approx) x 24. Heavy rust pitting was noted on the left rim. I think the original tubes were calcium solution filled, which is bad for steel when it leaks out. The current rears, though weather checked, are probably useable for display or light useage. New tires would be suggested for a perfect resto look. I have aired up the rears, and the left one may have a leak. Front tires & rims: New tires definitely needed here. One looks like it is an automotive, the other a std. tractor style, is totally bad. Front suspension:I don't think the front suspension assembly was ever completely stripped, primed and repainted, as was the rest of the tractor. Fenders:Not perfectly straight, but no major damage either. Reason for selling: While I'd like to keep this as a momento to my dad, I just don't know if I'll ever get back to a second resto. Most of us have more projects than we can handle in a lifetime. Surely someone out there could use this as a very restorable tractor. You won't have to search the states for a multitude of parts to complete this. I've tried to describe this thoroughly, noting what I know to be wrong. This is a near complete tractor, as stated above. It is not like some of the rigs I've seen trailered through town, which look like they will need about 1/2 another one to complete, and 5000 hours to boot. (John deere model 1936 ar ser. 251996 wide front end was posted and is owned by: Robert Sherman) |
robertsherman@chicagopartsnetwork.com (Robert Sherman) for more information.
